Hair dye



i To all whom it may concern:

IRENE HAMMOND STOLL, OF OLD, OHIO.

HAIR DYE.

1,405,458 Specification of Letters Patent. Patentefl Feb, 7, 1922. Ho Drawing. Application filed January as, 1919'. serial in. 273,642.

Be it known that I, IRENE HAMMoND STOLL, a citizen of the United States, resid- .and all the dark brown shades.

ing at 262515. 51st Street, city of Cleveland, in the county of Cuyahoga and State of Ohio, have invented a new and useful Improvement in Hair Dyes, of which the following is a specification,the principle of the invention being herein explained and the best mode in which I have contemplated applying that principle, so as to distinguish it from other inventions.

My invention relates to a hair dye and more particularly to a fluid compound especially adapted to improve thedyeing of live hair. y

.I' have learned that other hair dyes left something to be desire either in respect to their deterioration, obta ning of fast colors, precise shades, rapidity of result or injurious effects upon the scalp. Sugar of lead is dangerous to sore scalps. Some dyes heretofore used, after a certain lapse of time threw off decidedly queer shades so grotesque in fact as to be intolerable. Others would not permit washing of the head for twelve hours afterwards. Besides, some previously marketed dyes have included ingredients which were difficult to procure or were monopolized in one way or other by foreign interests.

Hair is very much more diflicult to dye than textile fabrics, because it is less readily penetrated. This is especially true of straight, hard and wiry hair, from which the dye is easily stripped by friction, or removed by the natural oil of the head.

My hair dye is being soldv in three two ounce bottles, each containing a different solution and visually characterized by their distinct colors, one being red, another blue and the third either pale yellow or pale green. One set of three solutions, including the red, the blue and the green, is for black The other set. including a red, a blue and the pale yellow is for light brown, blonde and reds.

To obtain a chestnut color, medium brown, drab and auburn shades a combination of the ingredients of the green and pale yellow solutions may be used. In order to secure red shades add ten grains and up of sodium 7 ing a permanent shade upon the hair.

' sulphide to the pale yellow solution. The

various shades may be produced with'each set of the triple colored solutions by varying the number and proportion of the ingredients of each. The corresponding solutions of each set vary slightly in the proportion of theingredients and in some instances have one or more fingredients added or omitted.

Human hair may be divided into three classes, namely, fine quality, medium quality and coarse quality and each requires different treatment.

The three solutions may be successfully applied in any order, but I have discovered that quickest results are obtained inthe case of soft fibres by, following this order, namely; red, yellow orgreen and then blue. The best results for soft fibre are, however, obtained in the following manner; first apply the red and allow it to dry, next the blue and allow it to dry and finally the yellow or green. The red constitutes the base color upon which the other two act. The blue drives the red in and forms the set for a natural hair color. The green sets and darkens the blue and red base upon the hair, finally giving the color and bringing the alkalies up to the surface and thereby lea;-

s a result of the rising alkalies a sediment is left, which must be rinsed off. For hard fibered hair I have discovered it best to apply the solutions in this order, yellow, blue and red but in doing so-the operator must be careful of undesirable results due tothe likelihood of a chemical action occurring on the brush when first dipped in the red solution;

To avoid this it is better to clean the brush prior to dipping it into the red solution and even then to bring it to the head as quickly as possible. For very tough fibered hair the blue solution may be advantageously modified so as to contain a little less ammonia and a little more vitriol.

In order to afford opportunity to make comparison between the formulae of different sets of three solutions each depending upon the group of shades which it is possible to obtain therewith I will give the formulae for two sets. The first set comprises the three distinct green, blue and red solutions and the second set includes the pale yellow, blue and red solution triad.

. Set-for darker shades.

then filter; to filtered solution add 3 grains of zinc oxide. Then add 10 grains of burnt soda to filtered solution, shake Well until soda dissolves; then filter again. To filtered solution add 25 grains of copperas, 3 grams of sal ammoniac and 2 grains of cream of tartar, then dissolve.

Blue solutz'ou.50 grains of burnt soda dissolved in 1 oz. of water and a little ammonia. To above solution add grains of burnt blue vitriol and 5 drams of ammonia, then add 1 drams more of plain water to make 2 oz. and two grains of citric acid.

Real solution, (blacks and dark browns) 2 grams of pyrogallic acid (extract of logwood) dissolved in 1 oz. of water; a of an oz. of peroxide; 25 drops of acetic acid; 2 grams of salt petre.

Set for lighter shades.

White solution-Dissolve 4 grams of copperas (green, whitish salt) in one ounce of water; add to this 1% grams of salt petre; add 2 drams of peroxide; add -2 rams of ammonia; add 7 more drams of water and filter. After filtering add 2 grams of sal ammoniac, 2 grains of cream of tartar to prevent settling.

Blue soluti0n.50 grains of burnt blue vitriol dissolved in 1 oz. of water. Add 8 drams of ammonia, 2 grams of burnt soda; 2 grams citric acid.

Pym or real s0lutz'on.'1 gram of Pyrogallic acid; 1% oz. of water; 5} oz. of peroxide; 15 drops of acetic acid; 10 grains of salt petre.

l have discovered the equivalent ingredients:

For copperas, iron alum sulfate. I

For ammonia, sal ammoniac with caustic soda.

For zinc oxide, zinc dust, zinc sulphate or aluminum sulphate.

For burnt soda, soda ash, baking soda, sal soda, sodium hydroxide, quick lime, unslacked lime, caustic potash, potash or common s'alt.-

For sal ammoniac, nitrate ammonia or ammonium sulphate.

For cream of tartar, citric acid.

For pyrogallic acid, tannic acid, mallic ac d, logwood, henna or alcohol With perpxalde, sodium sulphide, carbide or acetanifollowing to act as or iron proto- For acetic acid, citric acid, glycerine, formic acid or tartaric acid. 1

For salt petre, alum, burnt alum or potash. Y

For sodium sulphide, common salt or Glauber salt.

For bluevitriol, copperacetate or himtrate.

The hair and scalp should both be first thoroughly washed to remove all dirt, oil and scales. After the dyeing operation, which in practice is usually carried out by means of a soft short bristled tooth brush, the head and hair should be again-washed with a soapy solution containing a measure of salt and thereafter rinsed in a weak saline solution.

Previous hair dyes, so far as my knowledge extends, have been either a one or two bottle variety. The one bottle dyes are excessively slow because about fourteen successive applications are necessary. Theyv were usually applied about twice daily. The two bottle dyes were quicker. The first coat being to lend color and the latter application or coats being proposed to drive in the color. I believe I may be the first to employ a three solution hair dye.

The broad principle of dyeing anything comprehends three steps, namely, to clean,

to apply a mordant and 'finally to dye. The cleansing ingredients which I employ likewise cut any grease or oils on the hair or scalp and may be salts of ammonia and alkalies; the mordants may be organic acids and sulphates of iron; the dyes may be inorganic salts of copper and wood extracts.

Green s0luti0u.-The dissolved blue vit-' Bil) riol in water plus ammonia added to copperas dissolved in Water causes a sediment which must be filtered because such sediment counteracts the action of the zinc oxide and burnt soda, which is later added to first filtered fluid; by causing an action which throws up more sediment and further filtering. Then to green filtered fluid add sal ammoniac for setting color, also add enough copperas to make up enough for the amount lostin the treating of green solution. Add enough cream of tartar'to prevent'the last filtered fluid from settling.

The soda and sal ammoniac as added above tend to eliminate'the blue black and brings out a browner black which more closely approaches a natural color. This green fluid with more ammonia added to blue fluid as well as the addition of more peroxide of hydrogen and salt petre to red solution, achieves darker browns. The green solution is caused by an additional-amount of copperas and blue vitriol (burnt white.) It is advisable to have burnt soda powdered very fine and well. shaken for about one half minute. Filter a second time because it must be rapidly dissolved to produce a quick action before too much sediment is thrown up. If there is delay too much sediment will be removed.

Blue s0lutz'on.The red and blue solutions-make a direct brown which must be.

darkened or blackened and set, and finished by green solution if it is an average texture the color also will prevent blue black by adding more peroxide in red solution. Burnt blue vitriol causes the brown blacks also counteractin blue blacks and oil shades. The burning of blue vitriol causes it to lose three-fourths of its inactive ingredients and increases its solubility thereby requiring less ammonia and correspondingly concentrating. Used with ammonia helps to set color. Less ammonia and more water is used to. prevent the crystallizing of green solution and stops stripping or cracking. Citric acid is used to neutralize action of green solution and blue solution besidea-ddlng gloss to acetic acid in red solution. The blue color results from the action of ammonia and burnt blue vitriol.

Red solutz'0n.--Pyrogallic acid gives the shades, water the body, peroxide helps to drive the color in, acetic acid gives gloss and acts on the alkalies in the blue solution, helping to set. Salt petre slightly attains a reddish brown and acts with peroxide and ammonia. Sediment of red solution occurs 12 hours later after mixing. Have learned by experiment that it helps to set, and soapy water plus one tablespoon of salt powdered over head after drying, then a clear rinse plus a tablespoon of salt removes all sediment and dullness, also causes stimulation to hair roots and he] s to set. v Blue solution. ore or less burnt blue vitriol plus ammonia plus burnt soda causes the various shades of browns to blondes. Burnt blue vitriol varies the shades. Burnt soda enriches a shade and sets. Ammonia helps to effect and set and acts on pyrogallic acid.

Red s0lutz'on-.-Pyrogallic acid causes dif- 'ferent shades modified according to the amounts used. Peroxide drives the pyrogallic acid in. Acetic acid furnishes a gloss while salt petre varies the shades of reds and auburns.

Yellow soluh'o'n.Salt petre, or sometimes sal ammoniac or soda used with copperas,

dissolved in water to which an excess of ammonia and peroxide is added and by taking the dark or resulting fluid and filtering,

glves the yellow fluid. This is used to give the blue and red solution proper shading, gloss, set and finish. This filtered liquid is a salt solution which can be added to the blue solution; but results are better if red liquid first dries on the hair, then blue like-' wise permitted to dry thereon to obtain gloss.

The yellow when allowed to dry thereon as-70.

sures finish. A final shampoo with soapy water plus a tablespoon of salt thereafter rinsing with a weak saline solution.

Too much acetic acidcauses stripping or cracking orcrystallizing. Not enou h causes dullness and aflects the setting of co or. For

auburn and red hair use blue and white solution or blue and green solution with the addition of sodium sulphite and alcohol to red solution. By burning the blue vitriol better shades and sets are produced. The burning of the soda insures a better action on red solution. The green solution has a direct action on black and dark brown shades. If the amount of copperas is varied the shades of black and'dark brown change accordingly. All other solution ingredients help to prevent bluish shades and prevent copperas from destroying lustre given to hair by blue and red liquids. The green solution in the case of blacks and dark brown'and incase of -chestnut, medium, light brown, blondes, reds and auburns acts as. a substitute for nitrate of silver, sugar of lead and poisonous potassium sets. Cream of tartar or citric acid prevent sediment. All filtering is done in order to remove settlings that arise in the treatment of-copperas which sediment is commercially useless. copperas last in order to replace that which is lost in the treating of ammoniaand soda. Zinc oxide removes a certain amount of copper from the blue vitriol that was a to copperas solution, but leaves the other neutralizing ingredients in the blue vitriol Iadd' solution which otherwise could not be mixed I with the copperas solutions under'the influence of ammonia. This also leaves a solution which with soda causes an action that calls for another filtering after which the sal ammoniac and the copperas and cream ofv tartar are used in blue solution to produce blacks and dark browns. In case of blue blacks put both green and blue solution on together so that the ammonia in the blue solution will act immediately upon the green solution. Keep these dyes in cool dark places to prevent spoiling of peroxide in the red solution. In case of deterioration add peroxide. The ammonia in green solution is added to combine the blue vitriol fand copperas as in this case also to clear the resulting first filtered liquid. Soda is added not only as a set but as a neutralizer for the blue solution. Tests of the strength of my solutions have all been tried upon the skin of the face. Different amounts are required to obtain different shades. The bases of all colors are, treated copperas, treated blue vitriol and pyrogallic acid,

Salt petre used in red solution but may also 'be added to the blue or the green solution.

In case of a real hard wiry fibre of hair special color, instruction should be given.

In case of any diseases of the scalp special I up to the amount required.

- Asearlier suggested illimitable eliminable variations of the herein listed ingredients or their chemical family ingredients may be successfully employed in' practice. De-

" pending upon the; character of thehair to be treated each separate solution may be varied by either subtraction or addition and, moreover, combinations of the various colored solutions may be made, indeed, it is actually possible for me to make a single solution or single bottle hair dye.

Hair dyes are mostly used-to color scat-. tered orlocalized patches of gray hairs which are often prematurely gray because dltlon of pyrogallio ac1d and acetic acid and not equally healthy or because not normal. The importance will therefore be realized of matching the adjacent healthy hair which has retained its naturalcolor. One of the primary advantages of my hair dye is that It can be made to penetrate hair which previously marketed dyes failed to penetrate. Manifestly, hardwiry hair is more difiicult to penetrate so that one solution or the other must be strengthened and the other solutions to suit in order to compensate their counteracting tendencies. Nitrate of silver in a halr dye is swift in action but I have deliberately avoided its use because it invariably develops weird shades and one of the objects I have held in mind is the attainment of perfection '& of another in the blue solution;

and permanency.

Specifically, the formulas above set forth are those preferred by me after years of exerience, but it is not to be understood, and l do not propose to claim, that all of the ingredients are essential.

In the green solution the burnt soda and salamoniac could on some instances of hair texture be eliminated owing to the presence oreover, the zinc oxide and cream of tartar are both added merely to improve the commercial ap pearance. It is even possible to dispense wlth the green solution entirely if iodide of potassium as a substitute for it is added to the blue solution.

In both blue solutions the citric acid may be eliminated and still obtain all the results desired, this acid being added solely to im- I have stated that it is by no means impossible for me effectively to reduce a hair dye, embodying my invention, to a simple solution for sale in a single bottle. I would iterate that my single solution dye composed of 'what ll deem the essential ingredients Wlll not be as 'satisfactory- It is inevitably slower in action, less capable of penetration and unlikely to attain the same lustre or fine degrees of shade variations. Nevertheless, I deem it advisable to cite a few examples gathered from actual experience'of a single solution dye embodying my invention.

To obtain certain brown shades the blue solution with pyrogallic acid and acetic acid.

For certain red shades the blue solution nwith the addition of sodium sulphide, pyrogallic acid and acetic acid.

F or blacks the green solution with the adfor some textures of hair iodide of potassium instead of the two acids just named.

ll claim:

1. A hair dye composed of 75 grains'of a salt of copper, grains of a copper sulphate, .2 grams of pyrogallic acid, 5 drams of ammonia, 3/4 of an ounce of peroxide of hydro-- gen and about 16 1/2 grams of a sulphate of iron held in two solutions withwater, the

solutions being cessively.

2. A hair dye comprising three solutions,

the first containing a sulphate of iron, with a salt of copper; the second, an alkali with a purposed to be applied sucsalt of copper and the third a mordant with peroxide of hydrogen, said solution intended to be applied to the hair in the order named.

3. A hair dye comprising three solutions the first containing a 1/4 part of a sulphate of iron, a 1/39 part of a copper salt, a 1/32 part of ammonia and water to make about 2 ounces, the second solution containing a 1/19 part of an alkali, a 1/13 part of a copper salt, a 1/3 part of ammonia plus water to make another 2 ounces, and the third solution containing 1/32 part of a mordant and a 3/8 part of peroxide plus enough water to like- Wise'make 2 ounces. 1

, 4. A hair dye comprising three solutions the first containing a 174 part of copperas, a 1/39 part of burnt blue vitrol, a 1/32 part of ammonia and water to make about 2 ounces, the second solution containing a 1/19 part of burnt sal soda, a 1/13 part of a burnt blue vitrol, a 1/13 part of ammonia plus water to make another two ounces, and the third solution containing 1/32 part of pyrogallic acid and a 3/8 part of peroxide plus enough Water to again make 2 ounces.

5. A hair dye comprising three solutions aggregating not more than six ounces and including about 1/ 52 part of a copper sulphate, about 1/30 part of a copper salt dissolved in ounces.

water with about 1/9 part of aminonia as a' 10 Signed my me,

I this 18th day of January, 15 1919.

IRENE HAMMOND STOLL' 

